Measure and prepare all ingredients before starting. Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in a container and set aside. Crack the eggs into a separate bowl and set aside.
Add the butter and milk to a high-sided, heavy-bottomed saucepot. Heat on high until the milk just reaches a boil and the butter is fully melted simultaneously. Do not allow the milk to continue boiling.
Add the flour mixture all at once and stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate. Once the mixture begins to thicken, stir vigorously to smooth out any lumps.
Continue cooking on high heat, stirring constantly, until a cohesive dough (panade) forms, pulls away from the sides of the pot, and leaves a coating on the bottom. This takes approximately 2 minutes and indicates enough moisture has evaporated for a pipeable paste.
Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high to release steam.
Once the dough stops steaming, add the eggs one at a time on medium speed, beating fully after each addition. Continue until the paste is smooth, shiny, and passes a consistency test: drag a finger through the paste and the trench should close slowly, and the paste should fall from the spatula in a thick V shape. If all 5 eggs are incorporated and the paste is still too stiff, beat an additional egg separately and add it in stages, testing after each addition.
Add any mix-ins called for in your specific recipe. Transfer the paste to piping bags. Use immediately or refrigerate.
Brush the tops of the piped pastry with egg wash (beaten egg).
Bake piped choux at 350°F convection or 375°F conventional until deeply golden and hollow inside. I baked these pictured for 20-23 minutes for 4 centimeter gougères. Rotate the trays after 10 minutes. Timing will vary by size and shape.
Notes
Scaling: A half batch works reliably. This recipe can be made at up to four times the base formula; beyond that, the volume becomes difficult to stir and pot and mixer capacity become limiting factors. Doneness Cue: The trench test (drag a finger through the paste) should show the sides closing slowly and steadily, not immediately. Storage (raw paste): Store choux paste in piping bags in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or pipe, egg wash, wrap tightly, and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month. Allow frozen piped choux to sit in the refrigerator or at room temperature for an hour before baking. Storage (baked): Unfilled, baked choux pastries keep in the freezer for up to 1 month. Refresh savory items like gougères in a 350°F oven before serving.